It’s motorcycle related, honest it is! Muahahaha! Thanks G!
So on Saturday I finally got the last two parts I needed to start the .22 cent mod on my carb, the 7/64″ drill bit for the carb slide had been acquired early in the year and as I’d received the knurled idle mixture adjusting screw to replace the stock one on the carb on Friday, the parts were burning a hole in my hand as I gulped down the last of my tea and headed out to the garage in the cold and foggy morning dressed in my favourite Sunday sweater, full of holes and admittedly looking a bit decrepit, but I wasn’t posing for a photo shoot, just beating on a poor defenceless KLR that’s served me well for the past three years.
My buddy is constantly sending me links to newer bikes, but they don’t hold the same appeal for as soon as this one changes shoes, it’s an okay off road bike for a big guy like me, and when it wears it’s street tires, I can have as much fun as the speed limit allows, and still not worry about how shiny my chrome is or if the Pazzo shorty levers will let me tip it into turn two that much faster. 😀
That being said, I chose my “touring” tool kit to start, as if you don’t have the right tools at the side of the road in the Catskills mountains when your six year old loved and abused bike says “Enough!”, you better pray that CAA or AAA can see your smoke signals. I flesh it out now and then and try to see what works and what doesn’t all while keeping it in a bag about the size your mom used to send with you to school. An apple and a sandwich, or in my case a set of 1/4″ six point sockets, extensions, a mini gear wrench ratchet, a sliding T handle, assorted screwdriver and hex bits, along with an adjustable wrench and a pair of needle nose locking vise grips. The standard kit resides in the tool holder, and sees the light of day now and then. Add to this my shop tools, and I can handle a large number of jobs until compressed air or parts washing is called for.
The last time I played with a carb in ernest, I was eighteen and the Zenith two barrel carb on my ’76 Volkswagen rabbit was misbehaving, so I swapped it out after finding a nice Solex single barrel carb at the wreckers, but I’d read the how-to section and decided I could do this thanks largely to the excellent pictures and diagrams included.
That being said, I think there is a special place in hell reserved for the inventors of the Phillips star screws, and somewhere nice and warm, their friends, the inventors of the Phillips screwdrivers reside.
I found that the throttle cable bracket was held on by one stubborn screw that immediately began to strip out, so I changed bits to yet another profile, a little wider, a little shallower of a bite and proceeded to tease it out lubricated with curses to assist to find that the threads had been treated to some red loctite.
Rotating the carb was alright, but it exposed four more of the little beauties, one of which I knew was going to be a repeat, so I cursed it before touching it, waited to let those sink in then cursed it a bit more as sure enough, it began to spin and telltale shreds of metal began to accumulate on the edges of my screwdriver. Vise grips then, so with my tongue firmly wedged between my teeth, I clamped on and rotated it with ease, after which it turned readily, and the top of the carb fell off into my hand.
The slide and associated parts came out easily enough, and as soon as I pulled the needle, I saw it’d been shimmed ALREADY! I put the drill bit in the slide’s hole, and yep. 7/64ths on the nose. What about the idle mixture screw? Stock, but someone had removed the plug and obviously it had been adjusted.
I took stock, I would be able to replace the stock idle screw with the knurled one, and to install the klx needle in place of the stock, which I did. Getting that pesky diaphragm to sit pretty, rollover, and play dead was next to impossible when I recalled reading that someone had great success by lining the groove with a very slight coat of vaseline to get the rubber ring to seat AND STAY THERE! It worked like a charm! For those nay sayers out there, I was very careful to clean the excess out before reassembly as loose petroleum jelly in the carb body makes me shudder.
Damn!!! Who was this man that would rob me of my Sunday morning fun? Shatter my dreams of wheelies and roosting my mates as be rip through the forests? Who could have done this? Then I recalled that the previous owner had the Doo done by a member of www.KLR650.net which narrowed it down to one person.
Darn you Willys!!! 😉
I’ll be up shortly to see you and get ready for the 685 big bore. 😛
(I’ll edit and add pics later.)
No pictures, but I can tell you that the KLX needle has the bike pulling significantly harder up hills and on the straights. It’s noticeable difference to be sure. Willie says my gas mileage is going to suffer, I believe him, but for now I’m a very happy camper. 😀
Yep, with the 685 kit, KLX needle, stock exhaust (low buck mod) and stock main jet I’m getting about three hundred kilometres per tank. Time to rejet perhaps?
|Symtec “Under grip” style for Metric and Race Replica”|
I bought a set of these from a Parts Canada retailer for my Kawasaki KLR 650, and I’ve a similar set sold by Dual Star on my Suzuki Bandit GSF600s. I won’t own a bike without them now.
Fits: Universal Fit Works very well with the KLR!
|They don’t make them like this anymore.|
And now here’s another type that are designed to be inserted INSIDE your handle bars so you can run with any grip that you care to. Here is an excellent review I found for a Symtec product called “Heat Demons“. They require that you drill at least one hole into your bars or clip ons to route the wiring, so you may opt to have these done by professionals or a handy mate if you want this done. A word to the wise, share out the beer at the end of the job. 😉
Why not discuss “bar muffs” or “elephant ears” if you’re crazy enough to be out there riding in the cold? These work by slipping on over your bar ends and securing just past your levers, so you slide your hands into the open ends, where your hands and a good part of your wrist are completely out of the wind and covered. Obviously manufacturers will vary the product, from an ATV style that may be inexpensive, to purpose designed ones like the Oxford brand pictured here, which are windproof, waterproof and insulated. I’d like a pair to try this fall, I’d expect they’d let me ride in more comfort further into Ontario’s cold winters and springs. If it gets stupid cold and you need to get your ride home and into the garage safely, drop into a variety store and beg a couple of plastic shopping bags (the heavier the plastic the better) and cut a hole in one end sliding it over the controls, then put your hands in the top opening. Use rubber bands, string, tape or wire to secure them to your bars. It’s ugly, but you’ll get home with less wind and water on your hands, and getting there in comfort is much more fun. 🙂
|Oxford Muffs or “Elephant Ears”|
|Princess Auto “ATV Mitts”|
I ended up purchasing the Oxford Heaterz Touring model, but made absolutely certain that it ran the newer V8 controller unit due to some negative comments about the older V7 model.
I was in a hurry, and ran them directly to the battery as the installation instructions recommended, then rode 2500 kilometres with them, and here is my two cents having previously run symtec and dual star heaters under my grips:
Grip removal: I slid a screwdriver up under the grip, then the tip of a some WD-40 and sprayed, after which I rotated the screwdriver around the grips and they slid off with no damage at all and got tossed into the bin of spares.
I followed up by spraying brake cleaner on the bars to remove the residue, then sanded the bars lightly to remove adhesive and provide a rough bonding surface for the (Supplied) grip glue for the new Oxford Heaterz grips.
Grip Installation: I did a dry run (and I do mean dry) to find that I needed to trim out some mould over injection material from inside the grips. One Olfa knife and three minutes and I was ready to go.
I used about 1/2 to 2/3 of the grip adhesive on the bars, then rapidly slid the grips onto the bars, the throttle side went easily, the clutch side I needed much more force, but they both went on fairly well.
I used red loctite on the stock bar ends, as I cannot stand bar ends loosening off during a ride. Less is more, one small drop per bolt.
I routed the cables down as cleanly as I could, and mounted the control unit using the supplied metal bracket onto the left mirror bracket, but not before I had to select two longer bolts from a trackpak that I keep handy to make it happen. The supplied oxford bracket had to be bent quite a bit before it could be mounted with a couple of pairs of pliers, then further bent to conform to the curved mirror bracket, the bolts themselves did this.
I ran the power cable directly to the battery along the path of the wiring harness from under the frame, zip tying it as necessary.
I love the look of the wiring loom on the Oxfords, it is so much cleaner in appearance than the symtec or dual star grips I used before, and even with the bending of the bracket and longer bolts, the assembled finished product almost looks like an OEM add on rather than something I cobbled together.
The grips are slightly smaller than OEM and Pro Grip grips, so you lose perhaps an 1/8″ of real estate, and when you first ride with them, your thumbs my hit the wiring loom on the grips. Think of yourself probing a newly filled cavity with your tongue. You know its there and can’t get your head around the new feeling from your thumbs, then it fades away and you forget about it.
The wiring loom brushes the top of the fairing at full lock, but doesn’t grab or bind in any way, and as I rarely ride at full lock, is only a slight niggle that fades with the kilometres.
The grips themselves are not Pro Grip Gels, my favourite touring grips on the two dual sports I’ve run before, but are firm enough to ride trails, and soft enough to work well with your favourite gloves. They could have more give, and they slightly increase the circumference of the OEM grips, but I found that appealing, and the “Go Cruise” throttle lock and “Cramp Buster” that I used for four days of Interstate and twisties had very very little slip and needed no additional rubber traction aids to use.
The controller took me a few times to use without thinking about it, and I simply love the additional heat seatings as opposed to the old HIGH and LOW of the Symtec & Dual Star. When riding with those two products, I would lift my fingers off the grips to shed heat, or find that low wasn’t enough and high was too much. In comparison, the 30%, 40%, 50% 75% 100% etc (5 heat settings) of the oxfords was very user friendly. Two buttons, + & -, tap the plus to turn on, tap again to raise, press the minus to lower and press and hold to turn off. The LED lights were visible in all light conditions, the only drawback being that as I wired them directly to the battery, I had to ensure they were switched off when stopped, even though the controller supposedly monitors battery condition and auto shuts off, I have heard tales that there is not enough juice left to start the bike, and bump starting a fuel injected bike is usually no fun although possible. I plan to wire in a relay over the winter and a battery voltage monitor as I want to run a heated jacket and GPS in addition to the grips.
For the symtec and dual star grips, I used a soldering iron, grip glue, wire, drills to pierce the fairing to install the switch etc. The Oxfords went on in 1/2 the time, and look much better. The hardest part was mounting the controller on the mirror bracket, followed by taping the wiring connections. I did use di-electric grease in all the connections, as rusting connections can really spoil your day, especially when wrapped with electrical tape, if water invades, it takes forever to dry out.
Overall, I’m in love with them and prefer them to the symtec and dual star grips I’ve used in the past. They look great and perform better than expected in fog, rain and cool temps.
I’d happily buy another set for the next bike at this point. Ask me 50,000 kms from now what I think. 😛
Edit: I’ve had my grips slip using the symtec and kimpex setup, causing me to pull out my hair, remove the grips, and use contact cement, silicone, and safety wire. If you go that route, make absolutely sure you prep the bars for the adhesive and use it! Grip slip can be dangerous.
I did note that a friend of mine installed his grips with the wiring loom pointed UP instead of down as the grips indicate, and when I sat on his bike, found that my hands were perfectly at home on his grips, and don’t seem to require grip donuts that I may put on mine.
I’d buy them again, and am very happy with them. Now to see about longevity and durability…